Dead Points

The unfortunate truth is that not every move can be done statically. Some climbers, however, will erroneously divide moves between "technique" moves and "dynamic" or "power" moves. Nothing could be farther from the truth. I'd like to address a technique that is used in nearly every dynamical movement: the dead point.

Any time an object is thrown into the air, it rises at a certain speed, slows, and then starts to fall. But just before it starts to fall, it stops. For a moment, it is motionless, and that is called a dead point. Consider the impact of finishing your move on a dead point. On a crimp, you will avoid falling into the hold and falling off. On a long move, you will increase the accuracy of your move. And if you plan your dead point in advance, you will avoid under-reaching.

This technique is of particular relevance to campusers. When you make moves without your legs, controlled movements can greatly extend your endurance. Dead points can give your moves the accuracy and reliability of a static movement with the prerequisite of body tension.