The Power of Core

Forearms are the most important muscle for a climber to develop. They allow a climber to support weight on surfaces that a non-climber could not use. Unfortunately, forearms are also very much over-used; strong forearms sometimes encourage climbers to eschew technique in favor of campusing through routes.

For that reason, the intermediate climber looking to break a performance plateau would benefit greatly from training their core, which refers to the full range of abdominal muscles, and in particular the rectus abdominus (the part that forms a "six-pack"), and external and internal obliques. I must mention in passing that the much-lauded "six-pack" means little except that there is too little body fat to conceal the tendinous inscriptions crossing the two muscles that constitute the rectus abdominus. Don't get too caught up in the desire to get one.

Moving upward on a wall happens one of three ways. The first (and most simple) is contracting a muscle capable of lifting body weight, such as the biceps. The second is to create a center of balance and rotate around it by pushing laterally. The rigidity of the skeleton ensures that lateral movement is also translated into vertical movement. The third is to form a fulcrum (usually with your hips), use a limb below you as a lever, and allow that leverage to lift you.

Basic muscle contractions are the most familiar to a non-climber. A pull-up is a perfect example, required very little technique to perform successfully.

Center-of-balance movements are more complex, requiring the coordination of many muscle groups. The heel hook and weight shift belongs to this group.

Lever movements have variable complexity, ranging from fairly simple (flagging) to extremely difficult (bicycles and toe hooks).

Ultimately, any technique requires an active core that maintains tension on all points of contact. To develop that tension, practice dynamic upward movements on an overhang to difficult holds. Flex your stomach on the way up, and use the body tension it generates to keep your feet on the original holds. For you external and internal obliques, practice climbing routes using extensive flagging that involve twisting your body to move upward.

Dead Points

The unfortunate truth is that not every move can be done statically. Some climbers, however, will erroneously divide moves between "technique" moves and "dynamic" or "power" moves. Nothing could be farther from the truth. I'd like to address a technique that is used in nearly every dynamical movement: the dead point.

Any time an object is thrown into the air, it rises at a certain speed, slows, and then starts to fall. But just before it starts to fall, it stops. For a moment, it is motionless, and that is called a dead point. Consider the impact of finishing your move on a dead point. On a crimp, you will avoid falling into the hold and falling off. On a long move, you will increase the accuracy of your move. And if you plan your dead point in advance, you will avoid under-reaching.

This technique is of particular relevance to campusers. When you make moves without your legs, controlled movements can greatly extend your endurance. Dead points can give your moves the accuracy and reliability of a static movement with the prerequisite of body tension.

Barn-Dooring

Barn-dooring is when all your weight is on a single hand that is above a single foot. The hips swing away from the wall, the climber loses control of his or her body weight, and typically falls.

There are two ways to avoid it, other than simply finding a position that doesn't make you barn-door. A barn door typically occurs when both feet and both hands are on holds, then one hand reaches up or over to a new hold. In the process, weight is shifted to the foot beneath the hand still on the wall, and the other foot swings off, initiating the barn door.

Barn-dooring always occurs along a two-dimensional axis, which means that you will never barn-door if you have three points on (unless they are directly above each other). The best deterrent to the barn-door, then, is to consciously keep weight on both feet, increasing weight if necessary on the foot that keeps swinging off. In most situations, this will prevent you from barn-dooring.

The second method can only be used if the two points in question are somewhat offset, with at least eight horizontal inches different in their placement. This offset can be leveraged by pressing into the wall with the outermost hold--whichever is horizontally furthest from the foot that is coming off and creating the barn-door--and using the torso as a pivot point. Pressing into the wall should twist the other foot into the wall, avoiding the barn door. Be warned, however: if you push against the wall with your right foot, then your right hand will be pulled away from the wall, so make sure you have a good grip.

If you cannot avoid the barn-door even with the above methods, remember that the further your center of gravity is away from the axis, the worse the barn-door will be. Minimize the effect by moving the hips closer to the axis and keeping three points on as long as possible.

Good luck!

Dan
dipique at gmail dot com

Introduction: Understanding Climbing Technique

As far as I am concerned, climbing is the best sport in the world. I would rather climb than do almost anything else. First and foremost, climbing is an expression of every motivation of the human heart: passion, determination, the pure love of movement. Sure, I climb for the exercise and the social outlet, but first and foremost, I climb because I love to climb.

Unique among sports, climbing is accessible to nearly every demographic. No age, gender, body type, or race is excluded from climbing. One of my climbing friends is missing a limb, but he is a fantastically successful climber, sponsored by a major climbing equipment company. Another weighs well over three hundred pounds, but very regularly outclimbs climbers half his weight.

Climbing is also a versatile sport. It is a full body workout, and develops muscle tone, endurance, and flexibility instead of muscle mass. Climbing is extremely strenuous, and requires frequent rests; it is, therefore, a very social activity, since at least half of the climbers present will be resting at any given time. Any climber will tell you that the climbing community is exceptionally friendly. It builds self-image and self-confidence, and is tremendously calming, perfect for a depressurization after work or school.

I have never lived near the mountains, so I have always climbed mostly in a climbing gym. To find a gym near you, visit this site. After you have climbed a few months, however, I strongly encourage you to take a trip to climb outside. I promise, you'll love it.

Strength is a big part of climbing. As you climb, you will be amazed at how quickly your muscles build strength and endurance. But strength is not everything. I am five foot nine, and I have never hit 150lb (68kg). I have a light build, and it's hard to believe that I have any muscle on me at all. In spite of that, I am very successful in my climbing. And that is why this blog exists.

All strength is useless without technique. To climb well, one must learn a whole new way to move. This new paradigm is known as climbing technique. A weak climber with good technique will always outclimb a six foot body builder with poor technique. Always.

With this blog, I hope to cement my knowledge of technique, and perhaps to share it with others as well. If this blog has helped your climbing at all, or even inspired you to try out this wonderful activity, drop me a note; I'd love to hear from you.

Let's begin!

Dan
dipique at gmail dot com